The Cook's Book

Kitchen School Lesson 4 of 11

Heat

Most cooking is controlling heat: how much, how fast, and from which direction.

Pans. Different materials conduct and hold heat differently.

Pan Best for Notes
Stainless steel (clad) Searing, pan sauces, sautéing Heats evenly; food sticks until it browns and releases
Cast iron Searing steak, cornbread, rösti, high-heat roasting Slow to heat, holds heat superbly; must be kept seasoned and dry
Carbon steel Stir-frying, omelettes, searing Lighter than cast iron; seasons to near-nonstick
Nonstick Eggs, pancakes, delicate fish Medium heat or lower; don't preheat empty on high
Enameled cast iron Braising, stews, soups, bread Even, steady heat; good for long cooking

Preheating. A cold pan gives gray, stuck meat. Heat the pan first, then add the fat, then the food. A stainless pan is hot enough when a drop of water forms a ball and skates across the surface rather than sizzling and evaporating. Oil is ready for searing when it shimmers and moves like water; if it smokes heavily, it's too hot.

Smoke points. Every fat starts to break down and smoke at a certain temperature, releasing acrid flavors. Use high-smoke-point fats for searing and deep-frying.

Fat Approx. smoke point Good for
Butter 150–175°C (300–350°F) Gentle cooking, basting, finishing
Extra-virgin olive oil 190–210°C (375–410°F) Most sautéing and roasting, dressings
Clarified butter / ghee 230–250°C (450–480°F) Searing with butter flavor
Rapeseed (canola), sunflower 200–230°C (400–450°F) Searing, roasting, frying
Refined peanut oil 220–230°C (430–450°F) Deep-frying, stir-frying
Refined avocado oil 240–270°C (465–520°F) Very high-heat searing

Smoke points vary with refining and age, so treat these as guides. Butter burns early because of its milk solids; add a little oil, or add the butter near the end.

Stovetop vs oven. The stovetop heats from below, intensely and directly; it's fast and you control it second by second. The oven surrounds food with hot air, cooking it more gently and evenly from all sides. Many recipes use both: sear on the stove for color, then finish in the oven for even cooking, as with thick steaks, chops and frittatas.

Boil, simmer and poach. A full boil (100°C at sea level) is big, rolling bubbles: for pasta and blanching. A simmer is small bubbles breaking the surface steadily: for stews and sauces. A gentle simmer or "tremble" barely moves: for stocks. Poaching is below a simmer, about 70–85°C: for eggs, fish and fruit.

Crowding. Food releases water as it cooks. If the pan is too full, that water can't evaporate quickly, the pan temperature falls below 100°C, and food steams instead of browning. Leave space between pieces, and cook in batches if necessary.

Carryover cooking. Food keeps cooking after it leaves the heat, as heat from the hot outside moves to the cooler center. A large roast can rise 5–8°C (10–15°F) while resting; a steak 2–4°C (3–7°F). Take meat off the heat a few degrees before your target and let it rest; resting also lets juices settle so they stay in the meat when you cut it. Rest small cuts 5 minutes, roasts 15–30 minutes.