The Cook's Book

Before the recipes, a short course in how cooking works.

• How to use this book
• The ten tools you actually need
• Knife skills
• Heat
• Seasoning and tasting as you go
• Browning and the Maillard reaction
• Mise en place and reading a recipe
• The well-stocked pantry
• Food safety
• Internal temperature chart
• Leftovers, freezing and storage times

This chapter is the quiet engine of the book: the stocks, sauces, dressings, pickles and pantry staples that the other chapters lean on.

• Chicken StockThe quiet workhorse: clear, golden and rich with body4 h 25 min
• BéarnaiseHollandaise's bolder sibling, sharp with tarragon and shallot25 min
• ChimichurriArgentina's garlicky herb sauce for grilled meat45 min
• Pesto GenoveseBasil, pine nuts, garlic and two cheeses, bright green and fragrant15 min
• Tomato SauceSweet, simple and smooth, from a can of good tomatoes50 min
• Quick PicklesCrunchy, bright refrigerator pickles in 30 minutes45 min
• Chili CrispCrunchy, numbing, savory chili oil to spoon on everything45 min

Eggs may be the most useful ingredient in the kitchen: cheap, quick, and capable of being a breakfast, a sauce, a dinner or a snack.

• Boiled EggsFrom runny to firm, with a timing chart and shells that slip off20 min
• Scrambled EggsSoft, creamy curds cooked low and slow, with butter8 min
• French OmelettePale, smooth and tender, rolled around a creamy center5 min
• Eggs BenedictPoached eggs, ham and hollandaise on a toasted muffin30 min
• ShakshukaEggs poached in a smoky, spiced tomato and pepper sauce40 min
• Spanish TortillaThick potato and onion omelette, golden outside and just set within1 h

From a quick bowl of porridge on a dark weekday morning to a slow weekend table of pancakes, waffles and eggs, this chapter covers the meal people most like to share.

• Big-Cluster GranolaCrunchy, lightly sweet granola with chunky clusters1 h 15 min
• Buttermilk PancakesTall, fluffy American-style pancakes with a tender crumb35 min
• Norwegian Heart WafflesSoft, cardamom-scented waffles with sour cream and jam1 h 5 min
• French ToastCustard-soaked brioche, crisp outside and creamy within30 min
• Dutch BabyA puffed, golden oven pancake with crisp edges and a custardy center35 min
• Chilaquiles RojosTortilla chips simmered in red chili sauce, topped with eggs and crema45 min
• Croque MadameHam and Gruyère toastie under bubbling Mornay, topped with an egg35 min
• Turkish Eggs (Çılbır)Poached eggs on garlicky yogurt with sizzling chili butter15 min

Soup is forgiving to make and rewarding to make well.

• Chicken Noodle SoupPoached thighs, a clear golden broth and noodles cooked on the side55 min
• French Onion SoupAn hour of patient onions, a dark broth and a bubbling cheese lid1 h 45 min
• MinestroneA thick vegetable soup with beans, pasta and a Parmesan rind for depth1 h 10 min
• Bergen Fish SoupNorway's creamy, gently sweet-sour fish soup with root vegetables45 min
• Tom Yum GoongThailand's hot-and-sour shrimp soup, fragrant with lemongrass and lime45 min
• Chicken Pho (Phở Gà)A clear, spiced chicken broth with charred aromatics and rice noodles2 h 10 min
• Shoyu RamenA clear chicken-and-dashi broth, soy tare, and every topping made ahead1 h 30 min
• GazpachoAndalusia's chilled tomato soup, emulsified with olive oil and bread2 h 50 min
• BorschtRuby beet soup with beef, cabbage, dill and sour cream2 h 45 min

A great salad is a balance of contrasts: crisp against soft, sharp against rich, salty against sweet.

• Caesar SaladCrisp romaine, garlicky croutons and a punchy anchovy-Parmesan dressing30 min
• Greek Salad (Horiatiki)Ripe tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives and a slab of feta — no lettuce25 min
• Salade NiçoiseA composed salad of tuna, jammy eggs, potatoes, beans and olives40 min
• Larb GaiLao and Thai minced chicken salad with toasted rice, lime and herbs25 min
• TabboulehA parsley salad with a little bulgur — not the other way round35 min
• PanzanellaTuscan tomato and bread salad, soaked in its own juices55 min
• Smashed Cucumber SaladSichuan-style cucumbers in garlic, black vinegar and chili oil30 min

This chapter is about cooking vegetables so well that they are the part of the meal people reach for first.

• Roast PotatoesGlass-crisp outside, fluffy inside — parboiled, roughed up and roasted hot1 h 20 min
• Gratin DauphinoisThin potatoes baked slowly in garlic-infused cream until tender and golden1 h 40 min
• French FriesDouble-fried for a crisp shell and a soft, fluffy center1 h 25 min
• Whole Roasted CauliflowerSpiced, buttery and browned, with tahini and herbs1 h 10 min
• RatatouilleProvençal summer vegetables cooked separately, then simmered together1 h 30 min
• Eggplant ParmigianaLayers of golden eggplant, tomato sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan2 h 5 min
• Braised Red CabbageSweet-sour Nordic red cabbage with apple, vinegar and warm spices1 h 50 min
• Aloo GobiNorth Indian spiced potatoes and cauliflower, browned and dry45 min

This chapter is about starch and the water it cooks in.

• Spaghetti CarbonaraRome's four-ingredient classic, glossy and never scrambled25 min
• Cacio e PepeCheese, pepper, pasta water — and the method that makes them a sauce20 min
• Ragù alla BologneseA slow, milky, meat-first ragù — the real thing, worth the afternoon3 h 40 min
• Lasagne alla BologneseLayers of ragù, béchamel and pasta, baked until bubbling and crisp-edged5 h 20 min
• Baked Macaroni and CheeseCreamy underneath, crunchy on top, and properly cheesy55 min
• Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter and SageLight, tender dumplings made with as little flour as possible1 h 45 min
• Risotto alla ParmigianaThe master risotto: creamy, flowing, every grain distinct35 min
• Chicken PaellaA wide pan of saffron rice in the Valencian style, with a crisp golden base1 h 15 min
• Egg Fried RiceSeparate, smoky, savory grains in under 15 minutes15 min
• Chicken BiryaniSpiced chicken and fragrant rice layered and steamed together3 h
• Jollof RiceSmoky, tomato-red rice cooked in a deeply savory pepper base1 h 25 min
• Pad Thai with ShrimpSweet, sour and salty rice noodles from a hot pan55 min
• Dan Dan NoodlesSichuan street noodles with crisp pork, sesame and numbing heat25 min
• Spaghetti alle VongoleClams, garlic, white wine and parsley in a briny emulsified sauce50 min

These are main courses that happen to have no meat, not side dishes promoted to the middle of the table.

• Dal TadkaCreamy yellow lentils finished with sizzling spiced ghee50 min
• Chana MasalaChickpeas in a tangy, deeply spiced onion-tomato gravy50 min
• FalafelCrisp outside, green and fluffy inside — made from soaked, not cooked, chickpeas13 h
• MujadaraLentils and rice crowned with a heap of crisp caramelized onions1 h 5 min
• Thai Green Curry with Tofu and VegetablesA fragrant homemade paste, coconut milk and crisp vegetables45 min
• Mapo TofuSilken tofu in a fiery, numbing sauce of chili bean paste and pork25 min
• Vegetable and Chickpea TagineWarmly spiced, sweet and sour, with apricots and preserved lemon1 h 15 min
• Palak PaneerGolden paneer in a bright, smooth spinach sauce40 min
• SpanakopitaCrisp golden filo around a spinach, feta and herb filling1 h 50 min

Fish cooks fast and forgives little, so buying well is half the work.

• Crisp-Skinned Seared SalmonGlass-crisp skin, a barely set coral center, ten minutes in one pan25 min
• Gravlax with Mustard-Dill SauceSalmon cured in salt, sugar and dill for three days — the Nordic way3 d 1 h
• Fish and ChipsShatter-crisp beer batter, steaming white fish and proper double-fried chips1 h 30 min
• Baja Fish TacosCrisp battered fish, crunchy cabbage, lime crema and warm tortillas50 min
• Bergen-Style Fish CakesNorway's springy, pale fish cakes made from blitzed raw haddock and milk1 h 5 min
• Sole MeunièreFloured sole browned in butter, finished with lemon and parsley35 min
• Moules MarinièresMussels steamed open in white wine, shallots and butter in five minutes25 min
• Peruvian CevicheRaw white fish "cooked" in lime with chili, red onion and cilantro40 min
• Kerala Fish CurryFirm fish simmered in coconut milk with tamarind, curry leaves and chili45 min
• BouillabaisseMarseille's saffron fish stew with rouille and toasts — a home-kitchen version1 h 40 min
• Seared Scallops with Brown ButterA deep caramel crust and a just-warm, translucent center in four minutes25 min
• Whole Roast Sea Bream with Lemon and HerbsOne whole fish per two people, roasted hot on a bed of potatoes1 h
• Fish PieSmoked and white fish in a parsley sauce under a golden mash crust1 h 35 min

Chicken is the meat most of us cook most often, and most of us overcook it.

• Roast ChickenDry-salted overnight, roasted hot, with crackling skin and juicy breast1 d 2 h
• Buttermilk Fried ChickenBrined overnight, double-dredged and fried for a craggy, crunchy crust13 h 50 min
• Butter ChickenCharred, yogurt-marinated chicken in a silky tomato, butter and cream sauce4 h 50 min
• Coq au VinChicken braised slowly in red wine with bacon, mushrooms and little onions2 h 30 min
• Chicken Katsu with Tonkatsu SaucePanko-crusted chicken, shredded cabbage and a fruity, tangy sauce40 min
• Pad Kra Pao (Thai Holy Basil Chicken)Fiery stir-fried minced chicken with holy basil, over rice with a crispy fried egg25 min
• Roast Turkey with GravyDry-brined, roasted unstuffed, and taken out at the right temperature2 d 6 h
• Pan-Roasted Duck Breast with Cherry SauceFat rendered slowly from a cold pan, rosy meat, quick fruit pan sauce40 min
• Chicken Pot PieCreamy chicken and vegetables under a flaky, golden lid1 h 45 min
• Hainanese Chicken RiceSilky poached chicken, rice cooked in its fat and stock, three sauces2 h 15 min

Meat cookery comes down to matching the cut to the method.

• Pan-Seared Steak with Butter BasteA deep crust, an even rosy center and a five-minute rest1 h 15 min
• Roast Beef with Yorkshire PuddingsA rosy, evenly cooked roast from a low oven, finished with a hot blast5 h 25 min
• Beef BourguignonBeef braised in red wine until spoon-tender, with bacon, onions and mushrooms4 h
• Braised Short RibsBone-in ribs braised in red wine and stock until the meat slides off4 h
• Fårikål (Norwegian Lamb and Cabbage Stew)Norway's national dish: lamb, cabbage, salt and whole black pepper, nothing more3 h 15 min
• Kjøttkaker (Norwegian Meat Patties in Brown Gravy)Tender, nutmeg-scented beef patties simmered in a rich brown sauce1 h 10 min
• Smash BurgersThin, lacy-edged patties smashed onto a very hot pan, double-stacked with cheese30 min
• Chili con CarneBeef chuck slow-cooked with toasted dried chilies, cumin and beans3 h 30 min
• Shepherd's PieRich minced lamb under a ruffled, golden mashed-potato crust1 h 45 min
• CarnitasPork shoulder braised in its own fat and citrus, then crisped4 h
• Ribbe (Norwegian Crispy Pork Belly Roast)Norway's favorite Christmas Eve roast: crackling like glass over soft, rich belly3 d 4 h
• Wiener SchnitzelVeal pounded thin, crumbed and fried until the coating billows35 min
• Char Siu (Cantonese Barbecue Pork)Pork shoulder marinated overnight and roasted with a sticky, lacquered glaze13 h 35 min
• Beef RendangBeef slow-cooked in coconut and spices until dry, dark and intensely flavored4 h 30 min
• Slow-Roast Lamb Shoulder with Garlic and RosemarySeven hours in a low oven until it pulls apart with a spoon7 h 40 min
• MoussakaLayers of eggplant, spiced lamb and a thick, golden béchamel2 h 45 min
• Osso Buco alla Milanese with GremolataVeal shanks braised until the marrow melts, finished with lemon and parsley3 h
• Glazed Christmas HamA cooked ham baked slowly, scored, and lacquered with mustard and brown sugar5 h

Grilling is about managing two kinds of heat.

• Smoked Pulled PorkA slow-cooked pork shoulder, bark-crusted and tender enough to pull apart12 h 30 min
• Barbecue Pork RibsTender, glazed spare ribs with a smoky, sticky finish6 h
• Jerk ChickenFiery, aromatic chicken with allspice, thyme and Scotch bonnet13 h 5 min
• Chicken ShawarmaSpiced thighs, charred and sliced, in warm flatbread with garlic sauce4 h 50 min
• Lamb KoftaJuicy, spiced lamb skewers with herbs and a char55 min
• Chicken Satay with Peanut SauceTurmeric-lemongrass marinated skewers and a rich, sweet-spicy peanut dip2 h 40 min
• Galbi (Korean Grilled Short Ribs)Thin-cut beef short ribs in a sweet soy-pear marinade, charred fast4 h 25 min

This is food for the middle of the table: dips to tear bread into, things fried to a crisp and eaten with fingers, and a few dumplings and rolls worth an afternoon.

• HummusUltra-smooth, light and nutty — the way it is made in the Levant12 h 50 min
• GuacamoleChunky, bright and fresh — made in a bowl, not a blender10 min
• Gambas al AjilloShrimp sizzling in garlic, chili and olive oil — with bread to mop it up20 min
• Patatas BravasCrisp potatoes with a smoky tomato bravas sauce and garlic aioli1 h 5 min
• Pork and Cabbage GyozaCrisp-bottomed, juicy dumplings, fried and steamed in one pan1 h 15 min
• Crispy Baked Buffalo WingsShatter-crisp oven wings in a buttery hot sauce, with blue cheese dip1 h 30 min
• Ham CroquetasCrisp shells around a molten, creamy béchamel with jamón13 h
• Smørbrød: Three Open SandwichesNordic open sandwiches on dark rye — shrimp and egg, roast beef, and smoked salmon40 min

Bread is four things, flour, water, salt and yeast, and a handful of techniques that decide everything.

• No-Knead Crusty LoafTime does the kneading; a lidded pot does the bakery oven16 h 15 min
• Country SourdoughFrom a jar of flour and water to a blistered, tangy loaf, step by step1 d 1 h
• FocacciaBubbly, olive-oil-soaked and crisp-bottomed, with almost no kneading4 h 30 min
• Pizza MargheritaA slow cold-fermented dough and a blazing-hot home oven1 d 7 h
• Skillet Yogurt FlatbreadsSoft, blistered breads in a dry pan, ready in under an hour1 h 40 min
• Cardamom Cinnamon BunsNordic-style knotted buns: buttery, spiced and not too sweet3 h 20 min
• Dark Nordic Rye BreadDense, seeded, keeps for a week and slices thin for open sandwiches1 d 14 h

These are the bakes people ask for again: a chocolate birthday cake, a proper apple pie, brownies, scones, a Norwegian cream cake for the seventeenth of May.

• Chocolate Chip CookiesCrisp-edged, chewy-centered, with brown butter and pools of chocolate1 h 20 min
• Fudgy BrowniesDense and fudgy with a shiny, crackled top2 h 40 min
• Banana BreadMoist, deeply banana-flavored, made in one bowl2 h 30 min
• Carrot CakeSpiced, moist two-layer cake with tangy cream cheese frosting3 h
• Chocolate Layer CakeDark, moist sponge with a glossy whipped ganache frosting3 h 30 min
• Baked Vanilla CheesecakeCreamy, dense and crack-free, baked low and cooled slowly11 h
• Apple PieFlaky double crust, a juicy filling that holds its shape5 h 30 min
• Tarte TatinUpside-down apples in dark caramel under crisp pastry1 h 35 min
• PavlovaCrisp shell, marshmallow heart, soft cream and sharp fruit5 h
• SconesTall, light and flaky, ready in 30 minutes35 min
• Lemon TartSharp, smooth lemon custard in a crisp, sweet pastry case6 h 20 min
• Pepperkaker (Nordic Gingerbread Cookies)Thin, crisp, deeply spiced Nordic-style biscuits14 h
• Norwegian Cream Layer Cake (Bløtkake)Feather-light sponge, berries and whipped cream for every celebration4 h

A good dessert is mostly about temperature and timing rather than effort.

• Crème BrûléeSilky vanilla custard under a glass-thin sheet of caramel5 h 30 min
• Chocolate MousseDark, airy and intensely chocolatey, with no cream4 h 25 min
• TiramisuCoffee-soaked savoiardi, mascarpone cream and bitter cocoa6 h 35 min
• Sticky Toffee PuddingDate sponge drenched in hot toffee sauce1 h 20 min
• Vanilla Ice CreamA rich custard base, with or without an ice-cream machine10 h
• Rice Cream with Red Berry Sauce (Riskrem)The Norwegian Christmas dessert: cold rice porridge folded with whipped cream5 h
• Fruit CrumbleBubbling seasonal fruit under a crunchy oat-and-butter top1 h 10 min
• Chocolate FondantA small hot chocolate cake with a molten center1 h 10 min
• Mango Sticky RiceSweet coconut sticky rice with ripe mango and a salty coconut cream5 h

Twenty menus that turn the recipes in this book into whole meals: weeknight plans, a budget week, packed lunches, Sunday lunch, dinner parties large and small, and the big days of the year, from a Norwegian Christmas Eve to a midsummer table.

• Five WeeknightsServes 4
• Sunday RoastServes 6
• Weekend Brunch for EightServes 8
• Dinner Party for SixServes 6
• Dinner for TwoServes 2
• A Vegetarian FeastServes 8
• Summer BarbecueServes 8
• Midsummer TableServes 8
• Christmas FeastServes 8
• Norwegian Christmas EveServes 8
• New Year's EveServes 6
• Taco NightServes 8

• Five Weeknightsserves 4
• A Week on a Budgetserves 4
• A Family Weekserves 4
• Sunday Roastserves 6
• Weekend Brunch for Eightserves 8
• Dinner Party for Sixserves 6
• Dinner for Twoserves 2
• A Vegetarian Feastserves 8
• Summer Barbecueserves 8
• Midsummer Tableserves 8
• Autumn Comfort Supperserves 6
• Christmas Feastserves 8
• Norwegian Christmas Eveserves 8
• New Year's Eveserves 6
• Easter Lunchserves 8
• Harvest Dinnerserves 6
• Children's Birthday Partyserves 12
• Taco Nightserves 8
• Meal-Prep Sundayserves 4
• Packed Lunches for a Weekserves 4

The reference pages.

• Weights and conversions
• Ingredient substitutions
• Seasonal produce calendar
• Allergen key
• Glossary of techniques