Falafel

Name: Falafel
Prep time: 30 min
Cook time: 12 h 30 min
Total time: 13 h
Cuisine: Middle East
Ingredients: 250 g (1¼ cups) dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of cold water for 12–24 hours; 1 onion, small, roughly chopped; 4 cloves garlic; 30 g (1 cup) flat-leaf parsley, leaves and thin stems; 30 g (1 cup) cilantro, leaves and thin stems; 2 tsp ground cumin; 2 tsp ground coriander; ½ tsp cayenne; 7 g (1¼ tsp) fine sea salt; 1 tsp baking soda, baking soda; 1 tbsp sesame seeds, optional; 1 l (4 cups) neutral oil, for frying; Tahini Sauce, warm Pita Bread, chopped tomato and cucumber, Quick Pickles, pita adds gluten: serve with gluten-free flatbread or lettuce leaves to keep the meal gluten-free

Crisp outside, green and fluffy inside — made from soaked, not cooked, chickpeas

Makes: about 24 falafel
Hands-on: 30 min
Total: 13 h
Level: Some skill

Falafel that holds together and stays light starts with dried chickpeas that have been soaked but never cooked. Ground with lots of fresh herbs, onion and spices, they bind on their own and fry into crisp, golden balls with a bright green center.

Ingredients

250 gdried chickpeas (1¼ cups)soaked in plenty of cold water for 12–24 hours
1onionsmall, roughly chopped
4 clovesgarlic
30 gflat-leaf parsley (1 cup)leaves and thin stems
30 gcilantro (1 cup)leaves and thin stems
2 tspground cumin
2 tspground coriander
½ tspcayenne
7 gfine sea salt (1¼ tsp)
1 tspbaking sodabaking soda
1 tbspsesame seedsoptional
1 lneutral oil (4 cups)for frying

To serve

Tahini Sauce, warm Pita Bread, chopped tomato and cucumber, Quick Picklespita adds gluten: serve with gluten-free flatbread or lettuce leaves to keep the meal gluten-free

Diet: Vegan, Vegetarian, Dairy-free
Allergens: sesame, mustard, sulphites, gluten
Origin: Middle East (Egypt, Levant)

Method

The night before, cover the chickpeas with at least 1.5 L (6 cups) cold water and leave to soak for 12–24 hours. 12 h
Drain the soaked chickpeas well and pat dry. They should have doubled in size and be tender enough to bite through, though still raw.
Pulse the chickpeas, onion, garlic and herbs in a food processor, scraping down often, until finely chopped and the mixture looks like damp, coarse sand and holds together when squeezed. Do not make a paste. Work in two batches if needed.
Mix in the spices, salt, baking soda and sesame seeds. Refrigerate for 30 minutes so it firms up. 30 min
Heat the oil in a heavy pot (it should be at least 5 cm / 2 in deep) to 175°C (350°F).
With wet hands or two spoons, form the mixture into 24 balls or patties of about 30 g (1 oz), pressing firmly. Fry a test one; if it falls apart, mix 1–2 tbsp flour into the mixture.
Fry in batches of 6–8 until deep golden-brown and crisp, 3–4 minutes, turning once. Keep the oil at 170–180°C (340–355°F). Drain on a rack. 12 min
Serve hot with tahini sauce, pita, salad and pickles.

Why it works

Raw soaked chickpeas still contain their starch in an uncooked state; when ground, that starch acts as a natural binder, and it gelatinizes in the fryer to set the falafel. Cooked or canned chickpeas have already released their starch and too much water, so they make a mushy mixture that falls apart. Baking soda raises the pH, which helps the surface brown and the inside turn fluffy.

Common mistakes

Using canned chickpeas: the falafel disintegrates in the oil. This recipe really needs dried.
Over-processing into a smooth paste: you lose the light, crumbly interior.
Oil too cool: they soak up grease. Use a thermometer.

Variations

Baked falafel: Brush the patties with oil and bake at 220°C (425°F) on an oiled sheet for 25 minutes, turning halfway. Less crisp but very good.
Air fryer: Spray with oil and cook at 200°C (400°F) for 12–14 minutes, turning halfway.

Make ahead and storage

The raw mixture keeps 2 days in the fridge or 3 months frozen (as shaped balls, frozen on a tray then bagged; fry from frozen, adding 1 minute). Fried falafel are best fresh; re-crisp in a hot oven.

Notes

Total time includes the overnight soak. Gluten only from the pita; serve with gluten-free flatbread or lettuce leaves to avoid it. Sesame only from the optional seeds and the tahini sauce; mustard and sulphites only from the quick pickles.