The Cook's Book

Eggs

Scrambled Eggs

Soft, creamy curds cooked low and slow, with butter

Serves
2
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

Good scrambled eggs are custardy, softly set curds, not dry rubber. Lower heat, constant gentle stirring and pulling them off the heat a moment early are all it takes.

Scrambled Eggs: Soft, creamy curds cooked low and slow, with butter

Ingredients

  • 6large eggs
  • 2 gfine sea salt (⅓ tsp)
  • 25 gunsalted butter (2 tbsp)cold, in cubes
  • 1 tbspcrème fraîche or heavy creamoptional
  • 1 tbspchivesfinely chopped, optional
  • 1 pinchblack pepper
Diet
Vegetarian, Gluten-free
Allergens
egg, milk

Method

  1. Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the salt, and beat with a fork until completely uniform with no streaks of white, about 30 seconds. Let stand while the pan heats; salt dissolved early helps keep the eggs tender.
  2. Put the butter in a nonstick pan over medium-low heat. When it has mostly melted and is foaming gently, pour in the eggs.
  3. Stir slowly and constantly with a silicone spatula, sweeping across the bottom and around the sides, so the eggs form small, soft curds.
  4. After 3–5 minutes, when the eggs are thickened and mostly set but still glossy and slightly runny in places, take the pan off the heat.
  5. Stir in the crème fraîche, which stops the cooking, and the chives. The eggs will continue to set for 30 seconds.
  6. Season with pepper and serve immediately on warm plates or toast.

Why it works

Egg proteins begin setting around 62°C (144°F) and turn tight and weepy past about 80°C (176°F). Low heat and constant stirring keep the eggs in the creamy range and create small curds. Salting the eggs a few minutes ahead dissolves into them and stops the proteins from bonding too tightly, so they hold their moisture. Taking them off early allows for carryover cooking.

Common mistakes

  • High heat: big, dry curds and a watery puddle. Low heat, always.
  • Cooking until they look done in the pan: they'll be overcooked on the plate. Stop when still glossy.
  • Adding milk: it dilutes and can make the eggs weep. Use butter and a little cream at the end instead.

Variations

Smoked salmon scramble
Fold in 80 g torn smoked salmon and a little dill off the heat.
Fluffy diner-style
Cook over medium heat with fewer, slower stirs for larger, fluffier curds.