Tamagoyaki

Name: Tamagoyaki
Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 5 min
Total time: 20 min
Cuisine: Japan
Ingredients: 4 large eggs; 60 ml (¼ cup) dashi, Dashi, or water; 2 tsp sugar, up to 1 tbsp for a sweeter roll; 1 tsp light soy sauce; 1 tsp mirin; 1 pinch fine sea salt; 1 tbsp neutral oil, for the pan

Japan's sweet, layered rolled omelette

Makes: 1 roll, 8 slices
Hands-on: 15 min
Total: 20 min
Level: Some skill

Tamagoyaki is built from thin layers of seasoned egg rolled one over the next into a soft, tender block. A rectangular pan helps, but a small round nonstick pan works fine; you just trim the ends.

Ingredients

4large eggs
60 mldashi (¼ cup)Dashi, or water
2 tspsugarup to 1 tbsp for a sweeter roll
1 tsplight soy sauce
1 tspmirin
1 pinchfine sea salt
1 tbspneutral oilfor the pan

Diet: Pescatarian, Dairy-free
Allergens: egg, fish, soy, gluten, sulphites
Origin: Japan

Method

Beat the eggs with chopsticks without whipping in air. Stir in the dashi, sugar, soy sauce, mirin and salt until the sugar dissolves. Strain through a sieve into a jug for a smooth finish.
Heat a tamagoyaki pan or 20 cm nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Fold a paper towel, dip it in the oil and wipe the pan with a thin film.
Pour in about a quarter of the egg and tilt to cover the base. Pop any big bubbles with chopsticks.
When the egg is set on the bottom but still slightly wet on top, about 1 minute, roll it from the far side toward you into a log using chopsticks or a spatula.
Push the roll back to the far side. Wipe the empty part of the pan with oil and pour in another quarter of the egg, lifting the roll so the new egg flows underneath it.
When nearly set, roll the log back toward you, wrapping it in the new layer. Repeat with the remaining egg.
Tip the roll onto a bamboo mat or a clean towel, wrap tightly and leave for 5 minutes to set its shape. 5 min
Cut into 2 cm slices and serve warm or at room temperature.

Why it works

Each thin layer cooks gently and quickly, so the omelette stays tender and moist throughout. Rolling while the top is still slightly wet allows each layer to fuse to the next. The sugar and mirin help it brown lightly and also keep the egg proteins from tightening, which gives tamagoyaki its soft, almost custardy bite.

Common mistakes

Too high heat: the sugar browns and the egg becomes tough and blistered. Keep it at medium-low.
Waiting until fully set before rolling: the layers won't stick together.

Variations

Dashimaki tamago: Increase the dashi to 100 ml and use only 1 tsp sugar for a juicier, savory Kyoto-style version; it's more delicate to roll.

Make ahead and storage

Keeps 2 days in the fridge; good in lunch boxes and bento.

Notes

Dashi and soy sauce bring fish and soy; use water and tamari for a fish- and gluten-free version.