The Cook's Book

Small Plates & Sharing

Hummus

Ultra-smooth, light and nutty — the way it is made in the Levant

Makes
about 750 g (3 cups)
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

Truly smooth hummus comes from overcooking the chickpeas with a little baking soda until they almost fall apart, then blending them while warm with plenty of tahini and ice-cold water. It whips up pale, fluffy and creamy, nothing like the dense tubs from the shop.

Hummus: Ultra-smooth, light and nutty — the way it is made in the Levant

Ingredients

  • 250 gdried chickpeas (1¼ cups)soaked overnight in plenty of water
  • 1 tspbaking sodabaking soda
  • 150 gtahini (⅔ cup)a good, runny one, stirred well
  • 2lemonsjuiced (about 80 ml / ⅓ cup), plus more to taste
  • 2 clovesgarlic
  • 8 gfine sea salt (1⅓ tsp)plus more to taste
  • ½ tspground cumin
  • 100 mlice-cold water (⅓ cup + 1 tbsp)as needed

To serve

  • 3 tbspextra-virgin olive oil
  • sweet paprika or sumac, chopped parsley, a few whole cooked chickpeas, warm Pita Bread
Diet
Vegan, Vegetarian, Dairy-free
Allergens
sesame, gluten
Origin
Levant

Method

  1. The night before, cover the chickpeas with at least 1.5 L (6 cups) cold water and leave to soak for 12 hours. They will double in size.
  2. Drain the soaked chickpeas and put them in a pot with the baking soda. Stir over high heat for 3 minutes.
  3. Cover with 2 L (2 qt) cold water and bring to a boil. Skim off the foam and skins that float up. Simmer until the chickpeas are very soft and crush easily between two fingers with no resistance, 25–40 minutes.
  4. Drain. Set aside a spoonful of whole chickpeas for the top.
  5. Meanwhile, blend the lemon juice, garlic and salt in a food processor and leave for 5 minutes to mellow the garlic. Add the tahini and blend until thick and pale. Add 4 tbsp of the iced water and blend until smooth.
  6. Add the warm chickpeas and cumin and blend for at least 3–4 minutes, scraping down twice, until completely smooth. Drizzle in more iced water with the motor running until it is light and creamy, like soft-serve.
  7. Taste for salt and lemon. Spread on a plate in a swirl, pour over the olive oil and finish with paprika, parsley and the whole chickpeas.

Why it works

Baking soda makes the cooking water alkaline, which breaks down pectin in the chickpea skins so they soften and dissolve completely, giving a silky purée. Blending the chickpeas while warm and for a long time breaks every particle down. Ice-cold water helps the tahini emulsify into a fluffy, pale cream.

Common mistakes

  • Undercooked chickpeas: the hummus will be grainy. They should be mushy.
  • Blending too briefly: give it a full 3–4 minutes.

Variations

From canned chickpeas
Simmer 2 cans (480 g drained) with ½ tsp baking soda in water for 20 minutes until very soft; then proceed.
With spiced lamb
Top with 200 g ground lamb fried until crisp with cumin, cinnamon and pine nuts (adds tree nut).

Make ahead and storage

Keeps 4 days in the fridge with a film of oil on top. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Notes

Total time includes the overnight soak. Gluten only from the pita; serve with gluten-free flatbread or lettuce leaves to avoid it.

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