The Cook's Book

To share, chapter 14

Small Plates & Sharing

This is food for the middle of the table: dips to tear bread into, things fried to a crisp and eaten with fingers, and a few dumplings and rolls worth an afternoon. Put three or four of these together and you have a meal, whether that is meze, tapas or a Nordic smørbrød lunch. Most of the work can be done ahead. Hummus, muhammara and baba ganoush keep for days, and croquetas, arancini and gyoza freeze beautifully raw, so they can go straight from the freezer to the pan when friends turn up. Frying shows up often here. Use a thermometer and a heavy pot, keep the oil steady and don't crowd it: a crust only stays crisp when the oil stays hot.

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