The Cook's Book

Salads

Massaged Kale Salad

Kale rubbed tender with lemon and oil, with Parmesan, crumbs and apple

Serves
4
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

Raw kale is tough until you work it: a two-minute massage with lemon, oil and salt breaks down the leaves so they turn silky and dark green. This version adds crisp apple, Parmesan and garlicky toasted breadcrumbs, and holds well enough for packed lunches.

Ingredients

  • 300 gcurly kale or cavolo nero (10½ oz)about 1 large bunch, stems removed
  • 3 tbsplemon juice
  • 1 clovegarlicfinely grated
  • 1 tsphoney or maple syrup
  • 60 mlextra-virgin olive oil (¼ cup)
  • 3 gfine sea salt (½ tsp)
  • 1crisp applecored and cut into thin matchsticks
  • 40 gParmesan or pecorino (½ cup grated)finely grated; or a vegetarian hard cheese (traditional Parmesan and pecorino use animal rennet)
  • 40 gpangrattato (½ cup)Pangrattato, or toasted seeds
  • black pepper
Diet
Vegetarian
Allergens
milk, gluten
Season
Autumn, Winter, Spring

Method

  1. Wash the kale and dry well. Slice it into thin ribbons, about 5 mm.
  2. In a large bowl, whisk the lemon juice, garlic, honey, olive oil and salt.
  3. Add the kale and massage it firmly with your hands, squeezing and rubbing, until it darkens, softens and shrinks by about a third, 2–3 minutes.
  4. Leave 10 minutes to soften further.
  5. Toss in the apple and most of the cheese. Taste for salt, lemon and pepper.
  6. Serve topped with the pangrattato and remaining cheese.

Why it works

Kale's leaves are stiff with tough fiber and held rigid by water pressure in their cells. Rubbing them physically ruptures cells, and the salt and acid draw out water, so the leaves collapse and turn tender as if partly cooked. The dressing coats every crease, and the sweet apple and salty cheese soften kale's natural bitterness.

Common mistakes

  • Massaging timidly: really scrunch it, or it stays chewy.
  • Leaving thick stems in: they never soften. Strip them out.
  • Adding the crumbs early: they lose their crunch. Top just before eating.

Variations

Tahini kale
Dress with 60 ml Tahini Sauce instead of the oil dressing and add roasted chickpeas.

Make ahead and storage

The massaged kale (without crumbs) keeps 2 days in the fridge and holds up well for packed lunches.

Notes

Vegetarians: traditional Parmesan and pecorino use animal rennet. Gluten-free: top with toasted pumpkin seeds instead of crumbs.

Part of these menus