The Cook's Book

Every day, chapter 6

Salads

A great salad is a balance of contrasts: crisp against soft, sharp against rich, salty against sweet. Get that balance right and three ingredients are enough; get it wrong and no amount of garnish helps. The salads in this chapter range from a Greek horiatiki that needs only ripe tomatoes and good oil to main-course plates like Niçoise and Thai beef salad. A few principles carry through all of them. Dry your leaves thoroughly, because dressing slides off wet ones. Salt watery vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage ahead, so their juices season the salad instead of drowning it. Dress warm potatoes, grains and beets while still warm, when they absorb flavor best. And taste the dressed salad, not the dressing alone, before it reaches the table.

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