Miso-Glazed Black Cod

Name: Miso-Glazed Black Cod
Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 2 d 5 min
Total time: 2 d 20 min
Cuisine: Japan
Ingredients: 3 tbsp sake; 3 tbsp mirin; 150 g (½ cup) white (shiro) miso; 60 g (¼ cup + 1 tbsp) sugar; 4 (5–6 oz each) black cod (sablefish) fillets, skin on, 150–170 g each; or salmon or thick cod; 1 tsp neutral oil, for the pan; 2 scallions, very thinly sliced, optional; pickled ginger, optional, to serve

Buttery sablefish marinated in sweet miso and broiled until caramelized

Serves: 4
Hands-on: 15 min
Total: 2 days
Level: Easy

Saikyo-yaki, fish marinated in sweet white miso and broiled, is an old Japanese technique that became a well-known restaurant dish in the West. Black cod (sablefish) is the classic fish because its rich, oily flesh turns custardy under the caramelized glaze. Plan ahead: the marinade needs one to two days to work.

Ingredients

Marinade

3 tbspsake
3 tbspmirin
150 gwhite (shiro) miso (½ cup)
60 gsugar (¼ cup + 1 tbsp)

Fish

4black cod (sablefish) fillets, skin on (5–6 oz each)150–170 g each; or salmon or thick cod
1 tspneutral oilfor the pan
2scallionsvery thinly sliced, optional
pickled gingeroptional, to serve

Diet: Dairy-free, Pescatarian
Allergens: fish, soy, sulphites
Origin: Japan

Method

Bring the sake and mirin to a boil in a small pan for 20 seconds to drive off the harshest alcohol (some always remains). Lower the heat and whisk in the miso until smooth, then the sugar until dissolved. Cool completely.
Pat the fish dry. Spread the marinade all over it in a shallow container, cover tightly and refrigerate for 24–48 hours. 2 days
Heat the oven broiler (top grill) to high with a rack 15 cm (6 in) from the element. Line a sheet pan with foil and oil it lightly.
Wipe most of the marinade off the fish with your fingers (leave a thin film; thick miso burns). Lay skin side down on the pan.
Broil until the surface is deeply caramelized and blackened in spots, 6–8 minutes. If it browns too fast before the fish is done, cover loosely with foil or move down a rack. 7 min
The fish is done when it flakes at the thickest part and reaches 55–60°C (131–140°F); black cod's fat keeps it moist even at the higher end. Serve with rice, scallions and pickled ginger.

Why it works

Miso contains salt and enzymes that slowly season and soften the fish's surface over a day or two, while sugar and mirin draw out a little water and later caramelize under the broiler. Black cod's high fat content gives it a silky, almost custard-like texture that tolerates fierce heat without drying. Wiping off excess marinade prevents the sugary miso from burning before the fish is cooked.

Common mistakes

Leaving a thick layer of marinade on the fish: it chars black before the center cooks.
Marinating less than 12 hours. The flavor stays on the surface.
Using red miso, which is saltier and harsher. White (shiro) miso is sweet and mild.

Variations

Miso salmon: Salmon marinated 12–24 hours works well; broil 5–7 minutes to 50°C (122°F).
Miso eggplant (vegan): Brush halved, scored eggplant with the marinade and roast at 220°C (425°F) for 25 minutes.

Make ahead and storage

The marinade keeps 1 month in the fridge. Marinated fish can be frozen in the marinade for 1 month; thaw in the fridge and broil.

Notes

Black cod (sablefish) is sustainably fished in Alaska and Canada. Thick cod or salmon are less rich but good. Most miso contains no gluten, but some brands use barley — check the label.