Fish and meat, chapter 10

Fish & Seafood

Fish cooks fast and forgives little, so buying well is half the work. Fresh fish smells of the sea and nothing else; its flesh is glossy and springs back when pressed, and whole fish have clear, bulging eyes and bright red gills. Shellfish should be alive: mussels closed or closing when tapped, scallops sold "dry". Frozen-at-sea fish is often fresher than the "fresh" counter, so don't be shy of the freezer. Choose sustainably: look for MSC or ASC labels and be flexible. Pollock, hake or saithe for cod; mackerel, herring and sardines for tuna; farmed mussels and clams, which actually clean the water; Alaskan black cod or Arctic char for farmed salmon. Every recipe gives a target internal temperature, usually 50–60°C (122–140°F), and a cue: flesh turning opaque and parting into flakes. Raw dishes carry a freezing note; follow it.

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