Fish and meat, chapter 13

The Grill

Grilling is about managing two kinds of heat. Direct heat puts food right over the coals or lit burners: fierce, fast heat for thin things like kofta, corn, satay and galbi. Indirect heat puts food beside the fire with the lid closed, so the grill works like an oven: for whole birds, bone-in pieces, ribs and pork shoulder. Most good grilling uses both: set up two zones, cook through on the cool side, finish over the hot side for char. Charcoal burns hotter and tastes smokier; bank the coals on one side and control the heat with the vents (more air, more heat). Gas is cleaner and more precise: light one side, leave the other off, and add wood chips in a pierced foil packet for smoke. Every recipe gives an oven or grill-pan fallback.

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