The Cook's Book

Fish and meat, chapter 12

Meat

Meat cookery comes down to matching the cut to the method. Tender, lean cuts from the back of the animal — fillet, sirloin, rib-eye, loin, rack — cook fast and hot and are best pink: beef and lamb at 52–57°C (126–135°F) for medium-rare, pork at 63°C (145°F). Hard-working cuts — shoulder, shank, chuck, brisket, short rib, belly — are full of collagen that only melts after hours of low, moist heat at 85–95°C; undercooked, they're tough. Ground meat must reach 71°C (160°F). Salt ahead (1% of the meat's weight, a day before is ideal), dry the surface, and brown hard. Then rest: a steak for 5 minutes, a big roast for 20–45, so carryover heat finishes the center and juices settle instead of flooding the board. Buy less, better meat, and ask your butcher for the cut you need.

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