Every day, chapter 7

Vegetables

This chapter is about cooking vegetables so well that they are the part of the meal people reach for first. Almost every recipe relies on one of a handful of techniques: roasting hot and spaced out so vegetables brown instead of steam; blanching briefly in plenty of salted water to keep greens bright; braising slowly when you want silkiness; and frying in batches so the oil stays hot. Potatoes get special attention here, from glass-crisp roast potatoes to a proper gratin, because getting them right is a skill worth having. Season vegetables as boldly as you season meat, about 1 percent salt by weight, and finish with acid or fresh herbs. Many sides here can be prepared ahead, which matters when the oven is busy with a roast.

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