The Cook's Book

Vegetables

French Fries

Double-fried for a crisp shell and a soft, fluffy center

Serves
4
Hands-on
Total
Level
Some skill

Real fries are cooked twice: first at a lower temperature to dry and set the surface, then at a higher one until crisp and golden. A quick simmer in vinegared water before frying gives a thicker, crunchier crust that stays crisp long after it leaves the oil.

French Fries: Double-fried for a crisp shell and a soft, fluffy center

Ingredients

  • 1 kgfloury potatoes (Russet, Maris Piper, Bintje) (2¼ lb)peeled or scrubbed
  • 2 tbspwhite vinegar
  • 20 gfine sea salt (1 tbsp + ½ tsp)for the water
  • 2 lneutral frying oil (sunflower, rapeseed or peanut) (8½ cups)peanut oil makes the dish unsuitable for peanut allergy; beef dripping is traditional in Belgium but makes it not vegetarian
  • fine sea saltto season
Diet
Vegan, Vegetarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free
Allergens
None of the EU 14
Origin
Belgium and France

Method

  1. Cut the potatoes into 1 cm thick sticks. Rinse in cold water until it runs clear.
  2. Put them in a pot with 2 L water, the vinegar and the salt. Bring to a boil and simmer until just tender but not breaking, 8–10 minutes after boiling. Drain carefully and spread on a rack set over a sheet pan. Let steam dry 10 minutes.
  3. Heat the oil in a heavy, deep pot to 160°C (320°F). The pot should be no more than half full.
  4. Fry in 3–4 batches, without crowding, until the surfaces form a pale, dry, slightly blistered skin but no color, 4–5 minutes. Drain on the rack.
  5. Let them cool at least 15 minutes (or refrigerate up to 1 day).
  6. Heat the oil to 190°C (375°F). Fry in batches until deep golden and crisp, 3–4 minutes.
  7. Drain on paper towels in a bowl, toss with salt immediately and serve.

Why it works

Simmering in water cooks the inside through so the fries are fluffy, while vinegar firms the surface pectin so they don't fall apart. The first fry dries out the outside, forming a thin starchy skin; resting lets more surface moisture escape; and the hot second fry turns that skin into a crisp, golden crust through rapid dehydration and browning.

Common mistakes

  • Crowding the pot: the oil temperature crashes and the fries turn greasy.
  • Skipping the thermometer: oil that's too cool makes soggy fries; too hot burns them before they crisp. Use one.
  • Salting before frying: salt draws moisture and makes oil spit. Salt at the end.

Variations

Oven fries
After the simmer, toss with 3 tbsp oil on a preheated sheet pan and bake at 230°C (450°F) for 35–40 minutes, turning twice.
Serve with
Aioli or Mayonnaise, Belgian-style.

Make ahead and storage

After the first fry and cooling, freeze in a single layer, then bag; fry from frozen at 190°C (375°F) for 4–5 minutes.

Notes

Safety: never fill the pot more than halfway, keep a lid nearby, and never put water on an oil fire. Let the oil cool completely, strain and reuse it 2–3 times. Add peanut if using peanut oil.

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