The Cook's Book

Foundations

Caramelized Onions

An hour of patience for the sweetest, deepest onions

Makes
about 300 g (1¼ cups)
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

True caramelized onions are cooked slowly until they collapse into a soft, jammy, mahogany tangle. They take time, but they keep for a week and transform burgers, soups, tarts and sandwiches.

Ingredients

  • 1½ kgyellow onions (3¼ lb)about 6 large, halved and thinly sliced from root to tip
  • 30 gunsalted butter (2 tbsp)
  • 2 tbspolive oil
  • 5 gfine sea salt (¾ tsp)
  • 60 mlwater (¼ cup)plus more as needed
  • 1 tspsherry vinegar or balsamicoptional
Diet
Vegetarian, Gluten-free
Allergens
milk, sulphites

Method

  1. Heat the butter and oil in your widest heavy pan (at least 28 cm) over medium heat until foaming.
  2. Add the onions and salt. They will mound up; stir to coat, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring once, until they have softened and released liquid.
  3. Uncover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring every 3–5 minutes, for 35–45 minutes. As brown bits form on the pan, add a splash of water and scrape them up.
  4. The onions are done when they are soft, jammy and the color of dark caramel, reduced to about a fifth of their original volume.
  5. Stir in the vinegar if using, and taste for salt.

Why it works

Slow cooking first breaks down the onions' cell walls and evaporates water, then lets sugars caramelize and proteins undergo Maillard browning together; high heat would scorch the outside before the inside softened. Deglazing with small splashes of water dissolves the browned layer on the pan and folds it back into the onions, so they color evenly and deeply. Salt at the start draws out moisture and speeds the softening.

Common mistakes

  • Cranking the heat to save time: you get burnt edges and raw centers. It takes at least 45 minutes.
  • Crowding a small pan: they steam. Use a wide pan or cook two batches.
  • Stopping at golden: that's sweet, not caramelized. Go to deep brown.

Variations

Balsamic onion jam
Add 2 tbsp brown sugar, 2 tbsp balsamic and a thyme sprig for the last 10 minutes.

Make ahead and storage

Keeps 1 week in the fridge, 3 months frozen in small portions.

Notes

Use them in French Onion Soup, on burgers, in Frittata, or stirred into Gravy. Use all oil for a dairy-free version. Sulphites only if you add the vinegar.