The Cook's Book

Soups

Chicken Noodle Soup

Poached thighs, a clear golden broth and noodles cooked on the side

Serves
4
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

The soup people make for someone they care about. This version poaches whole chicken thighs gently in stock so the meat stays juicy and the broth gains body, then cooks the noodles separately so they never swell into mush in the leftovers.

Chicken Noodle Soup: Poached thighs, a clear golden broth and noodles cooked on the side

Ingredients

  • 2 tbspunsalted butteror olive oil
  • 1yellow onionabout 150 g, diced
  • 2carrotsabout 150 g, sliced 5 mm thick
  • 2celery stalkssliced 5 mm thick
  • 2 clovesgarlicthinly sliced
  • 1¾ lchicken stock (7½ cups)Chicken Stock or good store-bought, low-sodium
  • 600 gbone-in, skin-off chicken thighs (1⅓ lb)about 5 thighs; boneless works too
  • 3 sprigsthyme
  • 1bay leaf
  • 150 gdried egg noodles (5 oz)wide or medium
  • 1 tbsplemon juice
  • 15 gflat-leaf parsley (½ cup loosely packed)chopped
  • fine sea salt and black pepperabout 6 g (1 tsp) salt to start, more to taste
Allergens
gluten, egg, milk, celery
Origin
United States
Season
Autumn, Winter

Method

  1. Melt the butter in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and translucent but not browned, 8–10 minutes.
  2. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute, until fragrant.
  3. Pour in the stock, add the chicken thighs, thyme, bay leaf and 6 g (1 tsp) salt. Bring just to a simmer, then lower the heat so the surface only trembles, with a bubble breaking here and there.
  4. Poach the chicken uncovered until the thickest thigh reads 80°C (175°F) at the bone and the meat pulls away easily, 25–30 minutes. Skim off any gray foam in the first 10 minutes.
  5. Meanwhile, bring a separate pot of water to a boil with 1% salt (10 g per liter). Cook the noodles until just tender, drain, and toss with a few drops of oil so they don't stick.
  6. Lift the chicken onto a board. Fish out the thyme stems and bay leaf. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat into bite-size shreds and discard the bones.
  7. Return the meat to the pot and warm through. Stir in the lemon juice and parsley, then taste and adjust with salt and plenty of pepper.
  8. Divide the noodles between bowls and ladle the hot soup over.

Why it works

Thigh meat has more connective tissue than breast, and taking it to around 80°C melts that collagen into gelatin, giving both tender meat and a broth with body. A bare simmer rather than a boil keeps proteins from emulsifying with fat into cloudiness. Cooking the noodles apart stops their surface starch from thickening and dulling the broth.

Common mistakes

  • Boiling hard: the broth turns cloudy and the chicken goes stringy. Keep it at a tremble.
  • Cooking the noodles in the soup and storing them together: they drink the broth overnight. Keep them separate.
  • Salting fully at the start with store-bought stock: brands vary wildly, so season properly only at the end.

Variations

Rice instead of noodles
Use 150 g cooked rice (Perfect Rice) in the bowls in place of noodles.
Ginger and greens
Add 3 slices of fresh ginger with the stock and wilt a handful of spinach into each bowl at the end.

Make ahead and storage

The soup without noodles keeps 4 days in the fridge and 3 months frozen. Store cooked noodles separately for up to 2 days.

Notes

Breast meat can be used: poach it only until it reads 65°C (150°F) in the thickest part, about 12–15 minutes, then leave it in the hot broth off the heat for 5 minutes. Held at 65°C for a few minutes, chicken is as safe as at an instant 74°C (165°F), and it stays juicier.