Chicken Pho (Phở Gà)

Name: Chicken Pho (Phở Gà)
Prep time: 40 min
Cook time: 1 h 30 min
Total time: 2 h 10 min
Cuisine: Vietnam
Ingredients: 1 whole chicken, about 1.6 kg (3½ lb); 3 l (12½ cups) water, cold; 2 yellow onions, unpeeled, halved; 60 g (2 oz) fresh ginger, unpeeled, halved lengthwise; 3 star anise; 1 cinnamon stick, about 5 cm; 4 cloves; 1 tbsp coriander seeds; 1 black cardamom pod, optional, cracked; 15 g (a small bunch) cilantro stems, tied; 3 tbsp fish sauce, plus more to taste; 1 tbsp sugar, or rock sugar; 9 g (1½ tsp) fine sea salt; 400 g (14 oz) dried flat rice noodles (bánh phở), about 5 mm wide; 4 scallions, thinly sliced; ½ small white onion, shaved paper-thin and soaked in cold water; 150 g (1½ cups) bean sprouts; 1 bunch Thai basil, cilantro and/or mint, leaves picked; 2 limes, cut into wedges; 2 red chilies, sliced; hoisin and sriracha, optional, at the table

A clear, spiced chicken broth with charred aromatics and rice noodles

Serves: 4
Hands-on: 40 min
Total: 2 h 10 min
Level: Some skill

Phở gà is lighter and faster than beef pho but no less fragrant. Charring onion and ginger and toasting whole spices gives the broth its smoky warmth; a whole chicken provides both the stock and the meat; and the bowl is finished at the table with herbs, lime and chili.

Ingredients

Broth

1whole chickenabout 1.6 kg (3½ lb)
3 lwater (12½ cups)cold
2yellow onionsunpeeled, halved
60 gfresh ginger (2 oz)unpeeled, halved lengthwise
3star anise
1cinnamon stickabout 5 cm
4cloves
1 tbspcoriander seeds
1black cardamom podoptional, cracked
15 gcilantro stems (a small bunch)tied
3 tbspfish sauceplus more to taste
1 tbspsugaror rock sugar
9 gfine sea salt (1½ tsp)

Bowls

400 gdried flat rice noodles (bánh phở) (14 oz)about 5 mm wide
4scallionsthinly sliced
½small white onionshaved paper-thin and soaked in cold water
150 gbean sprouts (1½ cups)
1 bunchThai basil, cilantro and/or mintleaves picked
2limescut into wedges
2red chiliessliced
hoisin and srirachaoptional, at the table

Diet: Dairy-free
Allergens: fish, soy, gluten, sesame
Origin: Vietnam

Method

Char the onion halves and ginger: hold them over a gas flame with tongs, or set them cut side up under a hot grill (broiler), until blackened in patches and fragrant, 10–15 minutes, turning once. Rinse off any loose ash. 12 min
Toast the star anise, cinnamon, cloves, coriander and cardamom in a dry pan over medium heat, shaking, until fragrant, 2–3 minutes. Tie them in a piece of muslin or put them in a tea infuser. 3 min
Put the chicken in a large pot with the cold water. Bring slowly to a simmer over medium heat, skimming off the gray foam as it rises during the first 10 minutes. 15 min
Add the charred onion and ginger, the spice bag, cilantro stems and the salt. Simmer very gently, uncovered, until the thigh reads 74°C (165°F), 35–40 minutes. 38 min
Lift out the chicken and plunge it into a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to firm the skin. Pull the meat from the bones in large pieces and refrigerate. Return the bones and skin to the pot and simmer the broth 40 minutes more. 45 min
Strain the broth through a fine sieve. Skim most of the fat from the surface. Season with the fish sauce and sugar; it should taste slightly too salty on its own, since the noodles will dilute it. Keep at a simmer.
Soak the noodles in hot tap water for 10 minutes until pliable, then cook them in boiling water for 30–60 seconds until just tender. Drain and divide between big bowls. 11 min
Slice the chicken and arrange it over the noodles with scallions and drained shaved onion. Ladle the boiling broth over so it heats everything through. Serve with the sprouts, herbs, lime, chili and sauces for everyone to add as they like.

Why it works

Charring creates smoky, sweet compounds in the onion and ginger that are pho's signature background flavor. Starting the chicken in cold water and skimming removes the coagulated proteins that would cloud the broth. Taking the meat out once it's cooked, but simmering the bones longer, gives you both juicy chicken and a broth rich in gelatin.

Common mistakes

Boiling the broth hard: it emulsifies the fat and turns cloudy. Keep it at a lazy simmer.
Simmering the spices too long: star anise and clove become medicinal. If the aroma gets strong, remove the bag early.
Under-seasoning the broth: it must taste bold on its own to carry plain noodles.

Variations

Quicker pho: Simmer 2 L Chicken Stock or store-bought with the charred aromatics and spices for 30 minutes and poach 4 chicken thighs in it.

Make ahead and storage

The broth keeps 4 days in the fridge or 3 months frozen; the cooked chicken 3 days. Prepare the garnishes and noodles only at serving.

Notes

Black cardamom has a smoky aroma; leave it out if you can't find it rather than using green cardamom. Hoisin contains soy, wheat and often sesame; leave it off the table and the soup is gluten-free.