The Cook's Book

Salads

Coleslaw

Crunchy salted cabbage in a light, tangy buttermilk-mayo dressing

Serves
6
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

Most coleslaw drowns limp cabbage in sweet mayonnaise. Salting the cabbage first pulls out its water so the slaw stays crisp and the dressing doesn't thin out, and a mix of mayonnaise, buttermilk and cider vinegar keeps it light and sharp — exactly what grilled and fried food needs beside it.

Ingredients

Slaw

  • 700 ggreen cabbage (1½ lb)about ½ medium head, cored and very finely shredded
  • 200 gred cabbage (7 oz)very finely shredded
  • 9 gfine sea salt (1½ tsp)
  • 1 tspsugar
  • 2carrotscoarsely grated
  • 2scallionsthinly sliced

Dressing

  • 100 gmayonnaise (scant ½ cup)Mayonnaise or store-bought
  • 60 mlbuttermilk (¼ cup)or plain yogurt thinned with a little milk
  • 2 tbspcider vinegar
  • 1 tspDijon mustard
  • 1 tspsugar or honey
  • ½ tspcelery seedoptional
  • black pepper
Diet
Vegetarian, Gluten-free
Allergens
egg, milk, mustard, celery, sulphites
Origin
United States

Method

  1. Toss both cabbages with the salt and 1 tsp sugar in a colander set over a bowl. Leave 1 hour; it will wilt slightly and release a surprising amount of liquid.
  2. Meanwhile, whisk together all the dressing ingredients with plenty of pepper.
  3. Rinse the cabbage briefly under cold water, then squeeze it hard in a clean towel or spin it in a salad spinner until as dry as possible.
  4. In a large bowl, toss the cabbage, carrot and scallions with the dressing. Taste and adjust with salt, vinegar or pepper.
  5. Serve right away, or chill up to a day.

Why it works

Salt pulls water out of cabbage cells by osmosis; removing that water now means it can't seep out later and turn the dressing into a watery pool. The cabbage loses its raw, sulfurous harshness but keeps its crunch. Buttermilk adds tang and thins the mayonnaise without losing body.

Common mistakes

  • Skipping the salting step: the slaw weeps and goes soupy within an hour.
  • Shredding too thick: fine shreds absorb dressing; thick ones stay raw and woody.
  • Not drying after rinsing: wet cabbage dilutes the dressing.

Variations

Vinegar slaw
Skip the mayo dressing; toss with 60 ml cider vinegar, 60 ml oil, 1 tbsp sugar and 1 tsp mustard seeds, Carolina-style.
Asian-style
Dress with 3 tbsp rice vinegar, 2 tbsp neutral oil, 1 tsp sesame oil, 1 tbsp soy and lots of cilantro.

Make ahead and storage

The dressed slaw keeps 1 day in the fridge and stays crunchy thanks to the salting.

Notes

Celery only if you add the celery seed.

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