The Cook's Book

Foundations

Mayonnaise

Two minutes, one bowl, and a texture no jar can match

Makes
about 250 ml (1 cup)
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

Homemade mayonnaise is softer, brighter and richer than anything bought, and it is easier than its reputation. You can whisk it by hand in three minutes or make it with a stick blender in thirty seconds.

Ingredients

  • 1egg yolkat room temperature; or 1 whole egg for the stick-blender method; pasteurized if serving the vulnerable
  • 1 tspDijon mustard
  • 2 tsplemon juice or white wine vinegarplus more to taste
  • 2 gfine sea salt (⅓ tsp)
  • 200 mlneutral oil (¾ cup + 1 tbsp)sunflower, rapeseed (canola) or grapeseed
  • 1 tbspcold waterif needed to loosen
Diet
Vegetarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free
Allergens
egg, mustard, sulphites

Method

  1. Set a bowl on a damp cloth so it doesn't move. Whisk the yolk, mustard, lemon juice and salt together for 20 seconds.
  2. Add the oil a few drops at a time, whisking constantly. After about 2 tablespoons, the mixture will thicken and turn pale; this is the emulsion forming.
  3. Now add the oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking all the time, until it is all in and the mayonnaise is thick enough to hold soft peaks (a shape that droops at the tip).
  4. Taste. Add more lemon or salt as needed. If it's too stiff, whisk in the water a teaspoon at a time.
  5. Stick-blender method: put a whole egg, mustard, lemon, salt and all the oil in a tall, narrow jar. Let it settle for 10 seconds, place the blender head flat on the bottom, switch on, and slowly lift it once the mayonnaise forms, about 20 seconds.

Why it works

Mayonnaise is an emulsion: billions of tiny oil droplets held apart in a small amount of water from the yolk and lemon. Lecithin and proteins in the yolk coat each droplet and keep them from merging. At the start there is very little water to hold the oil, so it must go in slowly; once the emulsion is established, it can take oil much faster.

Common mistakes

  • Adding the oil too quickly at the start: it splits into a greasy soup. Rescue it by whisking a fresh yolk (or 1 tsp mustard) in a clean bowl and slowly whisking the split mixture into it.
  • Using all extra-virgin olive oil, especially in a blender: the high speed breaks up its polyphenols and turns it bitter. Use neutral oil, or whisk in olive oil by hand at the end.

Variations

Herb mayonnaise
Fold in 3 tbsp chopped chives, parsley and dill.
Spicy mayo
Stir in 1–2 tbsp sriracha or gochujang and a squeeze of lime.

Make ahead and storage

Keeps 4 days in a clean, covered jar in the fridge.

Notes

Raw egg yolk carries a small risk of salmonella; use pasteurized eggs for pregnant people, young children, the elderly or anyone immunocompromised. Sulphites only if you use vinegar rather than lemon juice.