The Cook's Book

Meat

Italian-American Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

Big, tender meatballs simmered gently in marinara

Serves
4
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

These are the Sunday-supper meatballs of Italian-American kitchens: beef and pork with milk-soaked bread, Parmesan and herbs, browned in the oven and then simmered in tomato sauce until soft and juicy. The soaked bread — a panade — is what keeps them tender.

Ingredients

Meatballs

  • 60 gstale white bread, crusts off (2 slices)torn
  • 120 mlwhole milk (½ cup)
  • 500 gground beef (1 lb 2 oz)15–20% fat
  • 250 gground pork (9 oz)
  • 2eggs
  • 50 gParmesan or pecorino (½ cup)finely grated
  • 3 clovesgarlicgrated
  • 3 tbspchopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 tspdried oregano
  • 11 gfine sea salt (scant 2 tsp)
  • ½ tspfreshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tbspolive oilfor the tray

Sauce

  • 1 lTomato Sauce (4 cups)or 2 jars good marinara
  • 4basil leaves
  • grated Parmesanto serve
Allergens
gluten, egg, milk
Origin
United States (Italian-American)

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F). Oil a sheet pan.
  2. Soak the bread in the milk for 5 minutes, then mash it into a paste with a fork.
  3. Add the meats, eggs, cheese, garlic, parsley, oregano, salt and pepper. Mix gently with your hands until evenly combined, about 1 minute — don't knead.
  4. Fry a teaspoon of the mixture to taste for seasoning. With wet hands, roll into 16 balls about 5.5 cm across (about 65 g each). Space them on the sheet pan.
  5. Roast until browned on top, 15–18 minutes. They needn't be cooked through.
  6. Meanwhile, bring the tomato sauce to a gentle simmer in a wide pan. Add the meatballs and any pan juices.
  7. Cover partly and simmer very gently, turning once, until tender and cooked through to 71°C (160°F) in the center, 20–25 minutes. Tear in the basil.
  8. Serve with spaghetti, in sub rolls, or with bread, with grated cheese.

Why it works

The panade — bread soaked in milk — holds moisture and physically gets between the meat proteins so they can't bind too tightly, which keeps the meatballs soft rather than bouncy. Pork adds fat and sweetness, cheese adds salt and savoriness. Oven-browning is easier than frying and gives a good crust; simmering in sauce finishes them gently and flavors the sauce.

Common mistakes

  • Overmixing, which makes tight, rubbery meatballs.
  • Using lean meat; they turn dry. 15–20% fat is right.
  • Boiling the sauce hard, which toughens them. Keep it at a lazy simmer.

Variations

Chicken or turkey
Use 750 g ground thigh meat and add 1 extra tbsp olive oil; cook to 74°C (165°F).
Ricotta meatballs
Replace the milk-soaked bread with 125 g whole-milk ricotta and 30 g dry breadcrumbs.

Make ahead and storage

Make and roast the meatballs up to 2 days ahead, or freeze them roasted for 3 months; simmer from frozen for 35 minutes. Finished meatballs in sauce keep 3 days.