The Cook's Book

Desserts

Tiramisu

Coffee-soaked savoiardi, mascarpone cream and bitter cocoa

Makes
1 dish (about 20 × 28 cm / 8 × 11 in)
Hands-on
Total
Level
Some skill

Layers of crisp sponge fingers dipped in coffee and a light, rich mascarpone cream, finished with a thick dusting of cocoa. This version cooks the yolks gently with sugar over steam, so the cream is safe, stable and silky. It needs a night in the fridge.

Tiramisu: Coffee-soaked savoiardi, mascarpone cream and bitter cocoa

Ingredients

  • 4large egg yolks (about 72 g)
  • 100 gsuperfine (caster) sugar (½ cup)
  • 30 mlMarsala or dark rum (2 tbsp)optional
  • 500 gmascarpone, cold (1 lb 2 oz)
  • 250 mlheavy (double) cream, cold (1 cup + 1 tbsp)
  • 350 mlstrong espresso or coffee, cooled (1½ cups)
  • 250 gsavoiardi (ladyfingers), about 30 (9 oz)
  • 15 gcocoa powder (2 tbsp)
Diet
Vegetarian
Allergens
gluten, egg, milk, sulphites
Origin
Italy (Veneto)

Method

  1. In a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water (the bowl shouldn't touch the water), whisk the yolks, sugar and Marsala continuously for 5–7 minutes, until pale, thick and foamy and the mixture reaches 72°C (160°F). Take off the heat and whisk 2 minutes more as it cools.
  2. In a large bowl, beat the cold mascarpone briefly with a spatula until smooth, then fold in the yolk mixture.
  3. Whip the cream to soft peaks (the tips flop over when you lift the whisk) with an electric mixer or whisk and fold it into the mascarpone mixture until smooth and light.
  4. Pour the cooled coffee into a shallow dish. Dip each savoiardi for 1–2 seconds per side; they should be moist on the outside but still firm in the center. Arrange in a single snug layer in a 20 × 28 cm (8 × 11 in) dish.
  5. Spread half the cream over the biscuits. Add another layer of dipped biscuits and spread the rest of the cream on top, smoothing it.
  6. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours, ideally overnight. Just before serving, dust thickly with cocoa through a sieve.

Why it works

Whisking yolks with sugar over steam (a sabayon) heats them to a safe temperature while trapping air, which gives a lighter, more stable cream than raw yolks. Mascarpone's very high fat content makes the cream rich but it can split if overbeaten, so it's mixed briefly and lightened with whipped cream. A night in the fridge lets the biscuits soften to cake and the cream firm enough to slice.

Common mistakes

  • Soaking the biscuits too long; they disintegrate and make the dish watery. One or two seconds a side.
  • Overbeating the mascarpone, which turns it grainy. Mix just until smooth.
  • Dusting with cocoa too early; it absorbs moisture and turns blotchy.

Variations

Alcohol-free
Leave out the Marsala; the sabayon works without it. Add 1 tsp vanilla extract instead.
Berry tiramisu
Dip the biscuits in sweetened raspberry purée with lemon instead of coffee and layer fresh raspberries between the cream.

Make ahead and storage

Best made the day before. Keeps 3 days in the fridge; it freezes surprisingly well for 1 month (dust with cocoa after thawing).

Notes

Look for savoiardi made with egg (most are). Marsala contains sulphites; leave it out if needed.