The Cook's Book

Baking, chapter 17

Desserts

A good dessert is mostly about temperature and timing rather than effort. Custards set gently and curdle when rushed, meringues need dry heat and patience, chocolate is happiest just warm, and ice cream depends on the balance of sugar and fat more than on the machine. Most of the fifteen recipes here can be made a day ahead, which is exactly what you want when you are cooking for guests; the few that cannot, like the fondant and Eton mess, take minutes at the end. You'll find the French classics, the British puddings, a Thai favorite and the Norwegian Christmas riskrem, each with the reasoning that makes it reliable. Several are naturally gluten-free, and the leftover yolks and whites from one recipe often feed another.

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