The Cook's Book

Baking, chapter 16

Cakes & Bakes

These are the bakes people ask for again: a chocolate birthday cake, a proper apple pie, brownies, scones, a Norwegian cream cake for the seventeenth of May. Baking is less forgiving than cooking, so weigh everything, including eggs and liquids, and bring butter and eggs to room temperature when a recipe asks; that one habit fixes most dense, split or flat cakes. Ovens vary more than recipes, so trust the cues — springy tops, clean skewers, a wobble in a custard — over the timer, and use an oven thermometer if your cakes always run early or late. The chapter opens with the two pastry doughs that every pie and tart in the book is built on, and good store-bought pastry is always an honest alternative.

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