The Cook's Book

Foundations

Fish Stock

Clean, sweet and done in 30 minutes

Makes
about 2 l (8 cups)
Hands-on
Total
Level
Easy

Fish stock should taste of the sea, not of a fish market at closing time. Use fresh white-fish frames, soak out the blood, and simmer no more than 25 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 1½ kgwhite fish frames and heads (3¼ lb)cod, haddock, sole, turbot or hake; gills removed
  • 2 tbspolive oil
  • 1onionthinly sliced
  • 1small fennel bulbthinly sliced; or 1 extra celery stalk
  • 2celery stalksthinly sliced
  • 200 mldry white wine (¾ cup)
  • 2¼ lcold water (9 cups)
  • 6 sprigsparsley stems
  • 1bay leaf
  • 6white peppercornsor black
  • 2 sliceslemon
Diet
Pescatarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free
Allergens
fish, celery, sulphites

Method

  1. Cut the frames into pieces that fit your pot and remove any gills (they are bitter). Soak in cold water for 20 minutes to draw out blood, then drain.
  2. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion, fennel and celery and cook gently without browning until soft, 6–8 minutes.
  3. Add the fish bones and stir for 2 minutes until they turn opaque.
  4. Pour in the wine and let it bubble for 1 minute, then add the water, parsley, bay and peppercorns.
  5. Bring just to a simmer, skimming off the foam. Do not let it boil.
  6. Simmer gently for 20–25 minutes, adding the lemon for the last 5 minutes.
  7. Ladle the stock through a sieve lined with damp muslin or a paper towel. Cool quickly and refrigerate.

Why it works

Fish bones are thin and their collagen dissolves fast, so 20–25 minutes extracts all the body you need; beyond that, the bones release chalky, bitter flavors. Soaking out the blood and removing gills prevents a muddy, gray stock. Sweating the vegetables gently keeps the flavor clean and sweet, which suits delicate fish.

Common mistakes

  • Using oily fish such as salmon or mackerel: the stock turns rank. Use white fish only.
  • Simmering for an hour like meat stock: it tastes of glue and bone.
  • Boiling: proteins cloud the stock.

Variations

Shellfish stock
Fry the shells of 500 g shrimp in oil until red, add 1 tbsp tomato paste, then proceed as above, simmering 20 minutes.
Richer, butter-sweated stock
Sweat the vegetables in 20 g butter instead of the oil for a rounder, French-style stock; it is then no longer dairy-free.

Make ahead and storage

Use within 2 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.

Notes

Fishmongers often give frames away; ask in the morning.